Buenos noches Buenos Aires! *
20.06.2008 12 °C
Anybody got 'wee' Eamon Holmes mobile number? Need to borrow some slacks off him...
Garrapinadas on the street, bife chorizo at the Parrilla, Malbec, Quilmes, Empanadas, Super Panchos, Alfajores...this place all about the chow! Perfect for animal lovers such as ourselves. Lovers of animals dead and cooked. (Slightly concerned regarding the toxoplasma issue in previous post. Maybe it's all tiaras and tantrums from now on?)
You can't help loving a city where the official tourist board info advises, we quote "The night activity is intense in Buenos Aires. A typical night could begin with dinner at 11pm, a visit to a bar at 1.30am, a discotheque at 3am, followed by breakfast at a cafe at 7.30am." Sweet Jaysus, could you see Belfast City Council putting that out, eh?! Thank Christ the DUP don't hold any sway out here...
Last night. Well this morning really @ Club69.
There is just a staggering amount of coolness awaiting exploration here - from MALBA to milonga, bars to boutiques...reminiscent of London or Paris, but bigger than both and with a tangible 'passion' (For life? Love?). Maybe that's a cliche, but certainly the people we encounter seem more gragarious than in either of those places. Even the Spanish (Castellano) spoken sounds more poetic than in Espana - obviously except when we're mangling it. Though we have 'No intiendo' perfected. Oh yeah, and 'Puto'. ('I don't understand', & 'Man-Whore'.)
But tomorrow the Porteno dream ends. The lease on our apartment is up, so we're breaking for the Brazilian border (Puerto Iguazu to be precise). We're really going to miss this city and the Porteno lifestyle (especially our 'hood Palermo Soho). The novelty still hasn't worn off having cable TV and broadband (and a comfy settee ('couch' is for douchbags) - think we've watched nearly all the Euro Cup games so far, and skype'ed everybody in Norn Iron).
Never did make the Tango lessons though - you get to the milonga too late and you're fakked by locals deftly throwing it down on the floor. Way too intimidating for a pair of left-footed gringos...
So we gotta go. Friday night, theatre performance to attend (featuring our landlord's brother as a mannequin (sounds like a role perfect for Keanu Reeves...), in a b-movie suspense comedy. In castellano. Oh the fun we're gonna have tonight...).
One last hurrah then before we're back 'on the road'. Sixteen hours of coach hell tomorrow...
Buenos noches amigos.
Argentina v Ecuador. World cup qualifier Sunday 15th June - River Plate stadium. Where we learnt to swear in castellano. Now we can insult people after we tell them we don't understand...
Us and our 'landlord' Manu. Muchos gracias for the hospitality hombre. Pass on our regards to the ol' man and rest of family. And ta for the, eh, the other...
Missing out on a Boca Juniors game at La Boca stadium, we just had to go down Maradonna's neck o' the woods for a saunter. You can't go far without encountering the holy handed rakers smiley coupon. Here he is holding a flip-flop. Here's me whaa indeed?
Fernandez Fierro. 'New-Wave' tango infused...in fact brain freeze even trying to contemplate genre. Probably the most outstanding live musical performance we've witnessed. Surely this is what Gardel would have wanted? Go check 'em...
The closest we'll get to any Gauchos. A highly camp, fully bizarre, euro-techno cheese-fest drag rendition of 'Don't Cry For Me Argentina'.
Old dude. In a cape.
- unlike every other fakking blog (usually American), we made the decision to not:
1/ Bang on about Che Guevara as if we knew him personally.
2/ Feature lots of gratuitous La Boca shots (then congratulate ourselves on being so 'brave' venturing into a 'working class' area). **
- *Which has just reminded us, maybe another 'rant' post is due soon...T.O.X.O.P.L.A.S.M.A. (Just how long is it since we've been in a Buddhist country?)